Here are just a few general remarks on life in Jordan :)
Men. There are good days and there are bad days. On a good day, a Facebook message saying things like this makes me laugh :
“I love all the stars in the sky, but they are nothing compared to the ones in your eyes!, ...... Only I need to know are you still single???.. ???..... i am looking for making a relationship..... i hope you like me ……...i want to be your real friend if you do not mind ....i live at Amman .... i see your photos... if you do not mind let us know each other first at internet ... ...i have master degree with Electronic Commerce ... …I will tell you more about me …. …I like your photo very much …. I will do anything for making you happy, ...if you need any help,, I am ready to give you my hand…… you are more beautiful than moon, i can not forget your eyes... There are 20 angels in the world,…..10 are playing,…..9 are sleeping,…..1 is reading this message…. Please add me and reply me soon ..... if you are not single please accept my apology .... god bless you .... thank.. “ (Wadaa Salim, 13th July)
So do random love declaration, grammatically incorrect remarks. However, the constant starring, the kissing noises, the 'tstststs', the 'are you married?' are exhausting, especially on a bad day. That is one thing I haven't got used to in the four months I have been here, it annoys me just as much as on the first day. There are a few ways around some of the things, but they are pretty inefficient. You can dress modestly, but unless you're hiding under a ninja outfit, they won't leave you in peace. What I find amusing is to tell taxi drivers various stories when they question me. The one I use most is the one where I am married to a Jordanian from Irbid and have a son called Mohammed. If you wonder why I don't just ignore their questions, well, there are two reasons. First, I feel it's impolite (even if I know it is ok not to answer, I just can't help to feel rude) and also, taxi drivers are the only ones who speak in Arabic to me.
One could probably write a book on taxis in Amman. In summer, a silent 'masha'Allah' crosses your lips when a Taxi with closed windows stops: it has air conditioning! The others have a different way of “creating” air conditioning: they drive as fast as they can while leaving all windows open. The only problem: the increased traffic in summer, thanks to all the khalijis (people from the Gulf) who are enjoying the “cool” Ammani climate! What I love about taking taxis, is the way one gives directions. No one knows street names. In fact I have no clue about the name of the street I have lived on for three months. Not that I ever needed it. I was once asked at border control, as I was re-entering Jordan, what my address was. I had no idea - I just told them my neighbourhood- Al-Yasmeen. To get to a certain place in Amman, it is necessary to indicate a landmark near the place you want to go, unless you're lucky enough to be going to an obvious place, such as city mall or a specific hotel. In the vicinity of that landmark, you need to indicate to the driver where it is you want to go. The great thing about that is the fluency you acquire in taxi arabic. I can convince a taxi driver to go on a one way street, explaining that there is no traffic and that it is only a short bit, but I can only buy about 6 different fruits and vegetables without pointing.
Another means of transportation I enjoy is the bus. I have taken the one to Jerash many times and it has helped me to become more patient. The way it works is that the bus leaves when it's full, knowing that there are about 20 seats. Sometimes you're lucky, sometimes you're not. The unpredictability can be mish kwayyis. (not good)
The recent uprisings in the Arab world have confused people back home even more I feel. Nothing major happened in Jordan. At the various demonstrations that occurred during my time here, quite a number of protesters were beaten up, but nothing severely threatened the regime. I usually avoided risky areas such as downtown after friday prayer, so I haven't seen much. Just police getting ready on Friday morning in the balad, various protests in front of the Prime Ministry at fourth circle and protests in front of the Syrian embassy, back in May and June, when people cared.
Before I got to Jordan, I was so excited about the food! I figured I would put on a stone ( I rather lost a few kilos – due to a various digestion issues) . Hummus, falafel, tabbouleh and so on being the standard dishes in most places, become less exciting and are only convincing when they are really good. I know I will miss them at some point, probably when I will be facing toad in a hole, smothered chicken and fish and chips on a menu. The traditional Jordanian dish is Mansaf.(Wiki page: Mansaf ). The best Mansaf I've eaten was the one the women in the camp prepared. Jabri's is nothing compared to that! My favourite drink in the Middle East is Lemon and Mint. It is simply the best. It is refreshing, helps you digest and goes with anything. If, however, you are a fan of Coca-Cola, you will have difficult moments in Jordan, where Pepsi is the leader on the market. It was always a moment of exhilaration whenever a shop sold real coke. And although some might deny it: Pepsi is no Coke! (even when you are really REALLY thirsty!)
Getting dressed in Jordan was one of the most annoying things. It was hot enough to walk around in a swimsuit and yet, better cover your elbows and knees. I have never dressed that much for other people as I have in Jordan. Although you get used to knowing what is acceptable and what is not in certain neighbourhoods of Amman, I often checked with a friend whether I was dressed appropriately enough. I am looking forward to the UK, where you can wear whatever you want, because there will always be someone weirder.
One of the most frustrating things in Jordan was service. Most expats complain about it. In shops or restaurants, there is either one guy, who is really slow and totally overwhelmed or there are five guys and they are totally inefficient, because they are either all helping you or none is helping you. Waiters in restaurants generally never deserve tip and client satisfaction is a notion that is lacked in many places. Of course, in some restaurants and cafés people were friendly and effective, but they were the exception.
My favourite time of the day in Jordan is sunset, especially if you are sitting at Old View Café in Jebel Amman. The city is slowly infused in a myriad of orange, yellow and pink tones. Kids are flying kites. Trained pigeons are flying in circles and the call for prayer starts all over the city. It's divine.
My favourite experience in Jordan was meeting the women at the Gaza refugee camp. I went there several times to teach English in a gym. Sometimes they were 20, sometimes 7, but they were always the most genuine and nicest people I have met in Jordan. I didn't feel like a stranger in their group as we talked about life, food, sports or clothes. I found the female solidarity I was looking for in the Middle East. It broke my heart when I had to say goodbye and if anything will make me come back to Jordan, it is what I found in the camp.
